Take a detour at the “Yellow Band” and head to Lhotse as you make your way on the route toward Everest’s summit. Lhotse will not disappoint the serious alpine climber.
Lhotse, at 8,516m (27,940ft) comes in as the 4th highest mountain in the world after Mount Everest, K2, and Kanchenjunga. Lhotse is connected to Everest by the South Col (a sharp-edged notch or pass that connects Everest and Lhotse) located on the west face of Lhotse. Col is an abbreviation of the French word couloir meaning a steep, narrow gully on a mountainside. This happens to be the most difficult and challenging part of the ascent to the summit. Its exposure to the elements and high winds usually ensures it is free of a build-up of snow. The South Col’s altitude never drops below 8000m and is also referred to as the “Death Zone”, due to the threat of altitude sickness. This is usually the main cause of failed attempts on the summit. Lhotse’s South Face rises steeply, making it the steepest mountain face in the world, and added to this is what is referred to as Yellow Band, an area of sandstone rock where crampons become less effective. Another challenge is the Geneva Spur, a large rock structure near the summits of Everest and Lhotse situated above Camp III and the Yellow Band, before Camp IV and South Col. It is obstacles like these that test the endurance and skills of even the most seasoned mountaineers, and often leads to a failed attempt at the summit.
The other obstacle in reaching the summit, other than altitude sickness, is the weather, and as we know this is in the hands of the Gods. Our expedition leaders are well equipped with the latest technology to receive accurate forecasts. Irrespective of technology, your experienced Sherpa guides will also know and advise you of whether an attempt is likely to succeed.
The Lhotse expedition route takes you across the Khumbu Glacier, the same route that Everest ascenders follow on their way to the summit. Once you reach the Yellow Band we head to the right and Everest summiteers go left. Lhotse comprises of three summits: Lhotse Main (8516m), Lhotse Shar (8383m), and Lhotse Middle or East (8413m). Camps are established from Base Camp right up to Camp 4 close to South Col. Leaving Camp 4 we tackle the climb to Lhotse summit.
Adequate time to acclimatize is the key to any serious climbing expedition - especially at these extreme altitudes. There will be many climbs up and back to base camps that will ensure you are safely acclimatized before your assault on the summit.
Lobuche Peak (6119m) is often climbed, if time permits, as a warm-up and acclimatization method prior to climbing Lhotse.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking’s Sherpa guides (well known for their climbing skills) will do everything within their power to lead you safely to the summit. Our guides are government certified and experienced climbers. We take no chances with your well-being and hence have allowed several days to make up for unforeseen circumstances, such as adjusting to higher altitudes and the possibility of altitude sickness.
Sherpa Expedition & Trekking has more than 40 years in the trekking and climbing business. We have an unparalleled reputation in providing logistical support and excellent client service.
Eating & Drinking
To join the Peak climb you should have a broad mountaineering background.
All Sherpa Expedition & Trekking staff is qualified, licensed and experienced climbers.
Nepal has four seasons, for example, autumn (Sept. Oct. Nov.), winter (Dec. Jan. Feb.) spring (March, April, and May) and storm (June, July, and Aug.). During the fall season, the evenings are cold in the mountains however the splendid sun makes for lovely daytime temperatures. At higher elevations temperature extend from about 20°C down to maybe - 10°C around evening time. Morning is typically clear, and after that mists develop during the evening, vanishing during the evening to uncover staggering starry skies.
Throughout the winter season, high passes, particularly the Thorong-La pass, Dhaulagiri circuit, Tilicho (Musukanta Pass) in Annapurna trekking, Chola Pass, Renjo La Pass, Khongma La Pass, Amalaptse Pass, Rolwaling Pass, Serpent col in Everest region, Lauribina Pass, Ganja Pass, Gosainkunda in Langtang, Larky Pass in Manaslu, are generally shut. Short and simple trek in center slopes is the best on this time. Heavy snow during January, February, and March makes the trails unsafe.
The best time for trekking and climbing in Nepal is spring (March, April, and May) and in September, October and November.. You should be prepared for sudden changes in the weather, hence the need to be prepared.
Evaluation A – "Moderate"
Evaluation B - "Specialized"
Evaluation C – "Specialized Plus"
Evaluation D – "Extreme climbing"
Accommodation at lower altitudes is in a guest house, tea house or hotel. At higher altitudes tents are provided.
In Kathmandu your hotel includes breakfast, whereas all meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) will be provided during the trek. Staple foods of mountain regions are potatoes, oats, buckwheat, Sherpa stew and Tibetan bread. Sherpas’ started farming potatoes when the first seeds were introduced to the region in the early 90s. There is a limited choice of food at higher elevations and except many potato dishes. Potatoes are high in carbohydrates – an excellent source of energy needed at high altitudes..
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking is set up for any crisis and your guides are experienced in first aid. In extreme emergencies a helicopter rescue is available
Personal insurance is necessary before heading on this expedition.
For calling from outside Nepal you need to dial international 00+ and country code 977 and then the area code e.g. for Kathmandu it is 1. To call Sherpa Xpedition & Trekking dial 00+ 977 986 600 7038
The cost of the NMA Peak Climbing Royalty.
For up to seven individuals USD 500
For each extra person up to 12 USD 100 per person
Group "B" Peaks
1-4 Persons USD 350
5-8 Persons USD 350 plus an extra USD 40 per person.
9-12 Persons 510.00 in addition to 25.00 (Per individual)
Note: The maximum number of individuals in the group is 12.
Trash store for every one of the 33 NMA designated peaks.
USD 250 to NMA
Per person in US Dollar
Everest Normal Route Spring Season 11000, Autumn Season 5500, Winter/Summer 2750
Everest Other Route Spring Season 11000, Autumn Season 5000, Winter/Summer 2500
Others Mountain in excess of 8000 m. Spring Season 1800, Autumn Season 900, Winter/Summer 450
7501m. - 7999 m. Spring Season 600, Autumn Season 300, Winter/Summer 150
7000 m. - 7500 m. Spring Season 500, Autumn Season 250, Winter/Summer 125
6501 m. - 6999 m. Spring Season 400, Autumn Season 200, Winter/Summer 100
Mt. Amadablam (6812m.) Spring Season 400, Autumn Season 400, Winter/Summer 200
Under 6500 m. Spring Season 250, Autumn Season 125, Winter/Summer 70
The arrangement of royalty for outside climbers will become effective from 1 January 2015 (B.S. 20171/09/17)
Everest Normal Route Spring Season 75000, Autumn Season 37500, Winter/Summer 18250
Everest Other Route Spring Season 60000, Autumn Season 30000, Winter/Summer 15000
Others Mountain in excess of 8000 m. Spring Season 10000, Autumn Season 5000, Winter/Summer 2500
7501m. - 7999 m. Spring Season 8000, Autumn Season 4000, Winter/Summer 2000
7000 m. - 7500 m. Spring Season 6000, Autumn Season 3000, Winter/Summer 1500
6501 m. - 6999 m. Spring Season 5000, Autumn Season 2500, Winter/Summer 1250
Mt. Amadablam (6812m.) Spring Season 8000, Autumn Season 8000, Winter/Summer 4000
Under 6500 m. Spring Season 4000, Autumn Season 2000, Winter/Summer 1000
Royalty for Nepalese climbers will happen from 13 February 2014 (B.S. 20170/11/01).
The Mountaineering Royalty has been completely postponed to the mountains arranged in the Mid Western and Far Western Development Region of Nepal for a long time affecting from 2070/04/01-2075/03/32 (16 July 2013 to 15 July 2018).
Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation of Nepal has expected that the opportune change in Royalty for mountaineering in Nepal will be the achievement for the advancement of the Nepalese Mountaineering Sector around the globe.
As per the choice of secretary level dated 2071/1/16, the protection sum for Sardar, mountain guide and high height walker is fixed as Rs 15 lakhs. Also, therapeutic protection is fixed as Rs 4 lakhs.
The maximum no. of individuals in a group is 15.
Two photographs – passport-style less than six months old.
Insurance policy copy
Remember – The better prepared – the more enjoyable your Expedition!
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