Are you an experienced mountain climber looking for a real challenge? Try Makalu, a four-sided pyramid soaring 8,485m (27,838 ft) in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km southeast of Mount Everest in the Makalu Barun National Park. Makalu has two subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse or Makalu II (7,678 m) about 3 km north-northwest of the main summit and Chomo Lonzo (7804m) that is connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow saddle of 7200m.
Makalu is definitely not a simple climb and is technically difficult and said to be one of the most challenging 8000m plus peaks in the world. You will have to climb some very steep inclines and across razor sharp ridges that will expose you to the often extreme weather conditions that prevail over this mountain. The last leg of the ascent requires some technical skills as you traverse a rocky terrain. Makalu has never been climbed during winter.
Most climbs traverse the north-western side of the mountain. The base camp is usually established at around 5,600m, with other camps at 6,100m, Camp 2 is at 6600m, the third camp is at 7200m and the last camp is at 7600m.
We have scheduled a few extra days in the itinerary in the event of the weather being unsuitable for climbing. These days are not wasted and will further help you to acclimatize as we camp at several altitudes on the side of the mountain at designated base camps. We will make an early morning start on the day of the climb, allowing ample time to reach the summit. Morning weather is often calmer and more predictable, but we mustn’t forget that “mother nature” makes its own rules.
Climbing Makalu requires you are fit and an experienced climber. It is considered a difficult and challenging climb with snow and ice to traverse along with several technical sections. You should be familiar with the use of crampons, ice axe, harness, grappling ropes and other alpine climbing techniques.
Some climbers recommend a gradual ascent to higher altitudes to avoid altitude sickness. Altitude sickness is most likely the major factor in denying a climb to the summit –and of course a sudden change in the weather.
The best season to climb Makalu is in April or May, in the spring, or in October and November in the fall season. Climbing mountains will teach you patience, persistence and gratitude. It will also leave you memories to last a lifetime.
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking’s Sherpa guides (well known for their climbing skills) will lead you safely to the summit. Our guides are government certified and experienced climbers. We take no chances with your well-being and hence have allowed several days to make up for unforeseen circumstances, such as adjusting to higher altitudes and the possibility of altitude sickness.
Eating & Drinking
To join the Peak climb you should have a broad mountaineering background.
All Sherpa Expedition & Trekking staff is qualified, licensed and experienced climbers.
Nepal has four seasons, for example, autumn (Sept. Oct. Nov.), winter (Dec. Jan. Feb.) spring (March, April, and May) and storm (June, July, and Aug.). During the fall season, the evenings are cold in the mountains however the splendid sun makes for lovely daytime temperatures. At higher elevations temperature extend from about 20°C down to maybe - 10°C around evening time. Morning is typically clear, and after that mists develop during the evening, vanishing during the evening to uncover staggering starry skies.
Throughout the winter season, high passes, particularly the Thorong-La pass, Dhaulagiri circuit, Tilicho (Musukanta Pass) in Annapurna trekking, Chola Pass, Renjo La Pass, Khongma La Pass, Amalaptse Pass, Rolwaling Pass, Serpent col in Everest region, Lauribina Pass, Ganja Pass, Gosainkunda in Langtang, Larky Pass in Manaslu, are generally shut. Short and simple trek in center slopes is the best on this time. Heavy snow during January, February, and March makes the trails unsafe.
The best time for trekking and climbing in Nepal is spring (March, April, and May) and in September, October and November.. You should be prepared for sudden changes in the weather, hence the need to be prepared.
Evaluation A – "Moderate"
Evaluation B - "Specialized"
Evaluation C – "Specialized Plus"
Evaluation D – "Extreme climbing"
Accommodation at lower altitudes is in a guest house, tea house or hotel. At higher altitudes tents are provided.
In Kathmandu your hotel includes breakfast, whereas all meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) will be provided during the trek. Staple foods of mountain regions are potatoes, oats, buckwheat, Sherpa stew and Tibetan bread. Sherpas’ started farming potatoes when the first seeds were introduced to the region in the early 90s. There is a limited choice of food at higher elevations and except many potato dishes. Potatoes are high in carbohydrates – an excellent source of energy needed at high altitudes..
Sherpa Expedition and Trekking is set up for any crisis and your guides are experienced in first aid. In extreme emergencies a helicopter rescue is available
Personal insurance is necessary before heading on this expedition.
For calling from outside Nepal you need to dial international 00+ and country code 977 and then the area code e.g. for Kathmandu it is 1. To call Sherpa Xpedition & Trekking dial 00+ 977 986 600 7038
The cost of the NMA Peak Climbing Royalty.
For up to seven individuals USD 500
For each extra person up to 12 USD 100 per person
Group "B" Peaks
1-4 Persons USD 350
5-8 Persons USD 350 plus an extra USD 40 per person.
9-12 Persons 510.00 in addition to 25.00 (Per individual)
Note: The maximum number of individuals in the group is 12.
Trash store for every one of the 33 NMA designated peaks.
USD 250 to NMA
Per person in US Dollar
Everest Normal Route Spring Season 11000, Autumn Season 5500, Winter/Summer 2750
Everest Other Route Spring Season 11000, Autumn Season 5000, Winter/Summer 2500
Others Mountain in excess of 8000 m. Spring Season 1800, Autumn Season 900, Winter/Summer 450
7501m. - 7999 m. Spring Season 600, Autumn Season 300, Winter/Summer 150
7000 m. - 7500 m. Spring Season 500, Autumn Season 250, Winter/Summer 125
6501 m. - 6999 m. Spring Season 400, Autumn Season 200, Winter/Summer 100
Mt. Amadablam (6812m.) Spring Season 400, Autumn Season 400, Winter/Summer 200
Under 6500 m. Spring Season 250, Autumn Season 125, Winter/Summer 70
The arrangement of royalty for outside climbers will become effective from 1 January 2015 (B.S. 20171/09/17)
Everest Normal Route Spring Season 75000, Autumn Season 37500, Winter/Summer 18250
Everest Other Route Spring Season 60000, Autumn Season 30000, Winter/Summer 15000
Others Mountain in excess of 8000 m. Spring Season 10000, Autumn Season 5000, Winter/Summer 2500
7501m. - 7999 m. Spring Season 8000, Autumn Season 4000, Winter/Summer 2000
7000 m. - 7500 m. Spring Season 6000, Autumn Season 3000, Winter/Summer 1500
6501 m. - 6999 m. Spring Season 5000, Autumn Season 2500, Winter/Summer 1250
Mt. Amadablam (6812m.) Spring Season 8000, Autumn Season 8000, Winter/Summer 4000
Under 6500 m. Spring Season 4000, Autumn Season 2000, Winter/Summer 1000
Royalty for Nepalese climbers will happen from 13 February 2014 (B.S. 20170/11/01).
The Mountaineering Royalty has been completely postponed to the mountains arranged in the Mid Western and Far Western Development Region of Nepal for a long time affecting from 2070/04/01-2075/03/32 (16 July 2013 to 15 July 2018).
Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation of Nepal has expected that the opportune change in Royalty for mountaineering in Nepal will be the achievement for the advancement of the Nepalese Mountaineering Sector around the globe.
As per the choice of secretary level dated 2071/1/16, the protection sum for Sardar, mountain guide and high height walker is fixed as Rs 15 lakhs. Also, therapeutic protection is fixed as Rs 4 lakhs.
The maximum no. of individuals in a group is 15.
Two photographs – passport-style less than six months old.
Insurance policy copy
Remember – The better prepared – the more enjoyable your Expedition!
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